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Changing light and colours on Edinburgh's highest hill As the days grow shorter and darkness extends its embrace ever further, you might be forgiven for wanting to hunker down under a warm blanket and hibernate until it’s springtime again. But this would be to miss out on one of the best times of year to enjoy the hill. Winter in Scotland is my favourite season to be out in the hills, with the low sun casting an alluring light across the landscape. The constantly changing sky is a restless beast, boiling, stirring, shining, and beguiling. No two moments are the same as you walk up the hill. Every time you look up you are met by a different sky and a changing light. Especially at sunset, when the eternal dance of the sunlight reaches its crescendo and the clouds are first smouldering, then bursting into flames. The pure sunlight ricochets through the atmosphere, igniting the clouds, and shattering the soaring ice crystals. The light then bursts into a thousand hues: the spectrum reveals its innermost recesses as the sun slips towards the horizon. A layer of cloud shrouds the far distance as you stand on the summit, looking past the spires and towers of the city. Then just as you think it is all over, the golden disc of the sun appears between the cloud and the horizon, shimmering as it slips towards the place between day and night. It dances its last, while the gathered crowd drinks in the otherworldly glow. And then it is gone. People turn and leave, rushing to get down the hill before the darkness comes to exact its toll. But we know better than to depart so soon. The next five minutes are the pièce de résistance. With the sun now lower than the cloud — but itself out of sight — the bright orange rays still hurl themselves forwards, bouncing off the underside of the clouds, illuminating them like a sea of molten magma. The extinct volcano which we are sitting upon is alive once more, just for a few minutes. The patchwork of glowing, broken clouds above us makes us feel as if we are inside the heart of the volcano, swimming through a pool of lava, looking up to the surface. The clouds are now fading as the sun slips further away. Reluctantly turning to the dark side of the hill for our descent, we are greeted by an emissary of the night, come to reassure us that wea re not alone: the full moon. Gold has become silver as day has become night. The Sea of Tranquility shines down upon us as the still waters of the North Sea lie before us, sprinkled with flecks of moonlight as the waves lap along the nearby shore. But the sunset has not yet breathed its last. The bright light of the crescendo has now become the deeper hues of the epilogue as we near the lower slopes of the hill. Edinburgh’s skyline silhouettes itself against the last throes of the day’s light. Oranges have become reds, reds have become purples, and soon even purples will fade into the deepest indigos. This is the Gloaming. Street lamps flicker into life below us, and the city is not yet ready to sleep. The darkness of the hill allows us to enjoy the sunset to its full extent. Then — as we slip back into the world of light bulbs, busy people, and buses — the sky darkens, the stars fade, and we lose our ancient ancestral link to the sun, the moon, the wind, and the sky. Until tomorrow.

How often does it rain? The short answer is “It probably won’t rain on you”. The long answer is longer: I’ve walked up Arthur’s Seat hundreds of times and most of them have been dry and sunny. This may come as a surprise to you if you’ve heard that it always rains in Scotland. But Edinburgh and the East of Scotland are generally much drier and sunnier than Glasgow and the West coast. Crisp, clear air Most days on Arthur’s Seat are clear and fine, with panoramic views far and wide. On particularly clear days we can see all the way to Ben Lomond, a mountain on the far side of Glasgow. We almost always get to enjoy sights all around, including the North Sea, Kingdom of Fife, Pentland Hills, and the Forth Bridge. But… Occasionally the hill is shrouded in fog — we call this ‘the haar’ in Edinbrgh — which adds an eerie, atmospheric ambiance. It makes everything very still and quiet, and — not being able to see down to the city below — it feels like we’re sailing over an ocean of cloud. On special rare occasions we are treated to a cloud inversion, where the summit is above the layer of cloud. Emerging from the mist into a warm, sunny world is like ascending to heaven. Quite often it can be windy on the hill, windier than in the city where you are sheltered by buildings. This wind can make it feel cold, and a strong wind can make walking difficult. For this reason I advise against using an umbrella on the hill. It can rain. Mostly it doesn’t. But when it does it’s normally a short spell of drizzle. I’ve watched many dark clouds from the hill as they pass by and head out to sea. Of course, heavier rain is also a possibility. I always recommend bringing a waterproof because it might rain at any time, and it’s better to be prepared. But your most important choice will be which shoes to wear. The rock on the hill can be slippery when wet, and the paths can get muddy, so wearing a decent pair of walking shoes or boots is always a good idea. A passing shower Rain also has its advantages. It clears the air, so afterwards the sunset is even more beautiful. It also clears the hill, so there are fewer other people around. In Winter there is the added excitement of frost and snow. We don’t get much snow in Edinburgh, but when we do the city is magical fairytale. There can be some icy sections on some of the paths, but the blanket of sparkling frost or white snow is beautiful to see.

How long it takes and when to set off I lead guided group hikes up Arthur's Seat, but if you prefer to do your own thing here's some information which might help. Watching the sun set over Edinburgh’s skyline is a pretty magical experience. Arthur’s Seat is the highest hill in Edinburgh and is conveniently located just next to the city centre, so you can enjoy this experience even when you’re only here for a short time. Here’s a non-exhaustive list of things to consider when planning your hike: Sunset Times Edinburgh is as far north as parts of Alaska, so there’s a huge difference between sunset times in Winter and Summer. The precise time of sunset changes every day, so you need to check what time it will happen on the day you’ve chosen. In mid  Summer  the Sun sets at 10:02 PM . In mid Winter  it sets at 3:38 PM. Each day the sunset time changes by a little bit, so no two days are the same. The rate of change is quickest in Spring and Autumn, when the days are rapidly getting lighter or darker. Remember that we change our clocks twice a year in Scotland. On the last Sunday in March we set our clocks forwards by one hour. And on the last Sunday in October we put them back by one hour. Trail Times You’ll need to consider how long it will take you to reach the summit. My group Sunset Hikes depart one hour before sunset, which allows plenty of time to enjoy the hike to the top. I like to avoid the busier main path and take a route which allows a better view of the sunset as we hike. If you’re super fit and heading up the most direct route you can get to the summit in about 30 minutes. But you’d spend most of your time on the dark side of the hill, so you’d miss out on the best moments of the sunset. Routes There are many paths and trails all over Holyrood Park, some of which take you to the summit of Arthur’s Seat, and some don’t. My favourite path is what I call the ‘Sunset Route’, which allows a near-constant view out towards the setting sun as we climb the hill. Another option — if you’re not bothered about getting to the summit of Arthur’s Seat — is to walk the path along the top of Salisbury Crags. This track follows the top of steep cliffs and has a good view of Edinburgh’s Old Town. It is a rough track which is steep in places and not maintained. Golden Hour I start my hikes one hour before sunset, and this time of day is known as Golden Hour. This is when the sunlight is at its best, showering the hills with golden rays and lighting up the cliffs in a blaze of colour. The Descent Walking down the hill after the sunset, you’ll see the sky constantly changing colour. The silhouettes of Edinburgh Castle and the Old Town are picked out against the technicolour background. The light will rapidly be fading. So I provide everyone in my group with a head torch, which is especially useful if there are clouds darkening the sky. Remember that there are no street lights on Arthur’s Seat, and relying on a mobile phone torch is not a very good idea. Some of the routes down the hill can be misleading. What appears to be a good quality path can rapidly descend onto steep, loose ground — or cliffs. It’s important to plan and choose your descent route carefully. Back in Town If everything goes according to plan, you’ll soon be back where you started. And you might still have time to find one of Edinburgh’s cosy pubs or restaurants to enjoy the rest of your evening.

People and Pictures Reviews & Photos Here are some thoughts and opinions from people who have joined me on an Arthur's Seat hike. As you can see, they all had a great time. Kathleen New York "The hike up Arthur's Seat with Marcus was wonderful ! He kept an easy pace , paused at regular intervals, and made sure all of us were OK on the few scrambly bits at the top. Marcus shared lots of interesting info about Edinburgh, the shrubs and flowers that grow nearby, the geography of the city, and lots more. Friendly , easy-going guide and amazing views of Edinburgh -- highly recommend !" See this review on FreeTour.com Allison California "Marcus was great ! He made sure to stop at certain points (not only for views but for a break). It was a long hike up but he made it as easy as possible ." See this review on GetYourGuide.com Jodie Seattle "An excellent welcome and insight to the Edinburgh skyline with Marcus. Very knowledgeable and friendly . He is also accommodating to all speeds of walkers. Well thought out view spots also. Excellent excursion to fight jetlag!" See this review on FreeTour.com Hunter Florida Marcus was an incredible trail guide with lots of hiking experience. Marcus also has a vast knowledge of the areas of Edinburgh that you view while hiking to Arthur’s seat. As a solo traveler I’m very pleased with my hike with Marcus, we took a slightly longer unmarked trail due to both of our physical abilities to hike. Which resulted in constant view of the city and an amazing atmosphere , his extensive knowledge of the trails ensured I got the best views overlooking the city during the entire hike. The weather was amazing during the day of hike and had an unbelievable sunset to view. Marcus answered all of my questions about Edinburgh and was a great conversationalist during the hike. I would recommend this to any travelers that enjoy the outdoors and enjoy hiking. See this review on Viator.com Naom Morocco "I highly recommend this excellent experience . I really enjoyed my walk to Arthur's Seat. So many amazing views in Edinburgh especially at sunset. Marcus was a knowledgeable, friendly and very professional guide. There were several stops at strategic locations to take pictures and admire the views as mentioned in the tour description." See this review on Viator.com

Highland Hiking Day Trip Cairngorms National Park From Edinburgh Experience the best of the Scottish Highlands and hike up one of Scotland's tallest mountains An early departure from Edinburgh allows us to take public transport to Aviemore - the gateway to the Cairngorms mountain range - where we take a transfer to into the hills. The hike takes us high up onto the Cairngorm Plateau, a world away from the city we left behind. This is a world of incredible natural beauty, remoteness, grandeur, and fragility. Often we see majestic mountain hares, fluffy ptarmigans, stately stags, and rare eagles. As the seasons change, so do the colours and textures of the ancient forests and high mountain plants. We return to Edinburgh in the evening, watching the sun go down as we travel South. Alternatively, you may choose to continue North to Inverness, the capital of the Scottish Highlands. From Inverness you can take transfers to the Isle of Skye and other parts of the Highlands. Buy Tickets

Guided hikes with a qualified Mountain Leader. Join Mountain Marcus on a walk to Edinburgh's highest point. Enjoy a little slice of the Scottish Highlands in the city centre Guided Hikes in the Centre of Edinburgh and the Scottish Highlands with a qualified Mountain Leader Arthur's Seat Hikes Info & Tickets Scottish Highlands Hikes Info & Tickets Tickets Tickets Now - December 2025 Reviews ★★★★★ "Fantastic for a solo traveller! The views at sunset were incredible 100% recommend" Hunter, USA Great For: Solo Travellers Couples Families Groups " A hill for magnitude, a mountain in virtue of its bold design" Robert Louis Stevenson There aren't many cities with a mountain right in their centre. Arthur's Seat is conveniently located just a few steps away from the Royal Mile and the Old Town. It's a little piece of the Scottish Highlands which you can experience without leaving the city. Climb a Volcano in the Centre of Edinburgh with a qualified Mountain Leader Arthur's Seat sits in the middle of Edinburgh, and is the highest point in the city , with amazing panoramic views and an unspoilt natural environment. If you want to climb a mountain near Edinburgh , you should try Arthur's Seat because it's a mountain in Edinburgh. We will meet in the heart of Edinburgh's Old Town , and walk to Arthur's Seat from the Royal Mile . Very quickly the sounds of the city fade away as we enter the tranquil natural oasis of Holyrood Park. Here you will feel like you've been transported to the countryside, with the beautiful trees and rugged outline of the mountain lying ahead. Sunset: At sunset the hill takes on a whole different personality. Scotland has some of the world's most beautiful skies , especially during Golden Hour - when this hike takes place. The colours are constantly changing: oranges, pinks, purples, and the dramatic clouds add a dynamic , elemental force to the experience. After reaching the summit to watch the final moments of the Sunset, we walk down the hill in the twilight as the colour of the sky continues to change, ending back where we started in the centre of the city. Useful Information: Route & Terrain: - Arthur’s Seat is 251 metres high (823 feet) - Some sections of the path are steep, rocky, and loose - There will be plenty of opportunities to stop, take photos, and admire the view - Occasionally, the route may need to be adapted due to the weather conditions or group members Weather & Clothing: - Please wear appropriate hiking shoes/boots and bring a jacket in case it's cold or wet - In cold weather please bring a hat and gloves - In sunny weather you may also want to bring a sun hat, sunglasses and suncream - The weather in Scotland can change quickly. It can be colder and windier on the hill than in the city Also Note: - There are no toilets anywhere on the route - Parking: Holyrood Car Park is sometimes full or closed for events. Allow time to find an alternative, or preferably arrive by foot or public transport. Featured Articles Planning A Sunset Hike Edinburgh is as far north as parts of Alaska, so there’s a huge difference between sunset times in Winter and Summer. Winter Sunsets on Arthur's Seat Oranges have become reds, reds have become purples, and soon even purples will fade into the deepest indigos. Do you need a tour guide on Arthur’s Seat? 8¼ reasons to book a guided group hike with a qualified mountain leader About ABOUT M ountain M arcus Edinburgh-based Mountain Leader Many years experience exploring Scotland's Wild places Sharing the rugged beauty of Scotland's mountains When I'm not leading groups up Arthur's Seat, I spend as much time as possible in Scotland's mountains. Scotland is home to a lifetime's worth of adventures, so - if you'll excuse me - I'm off to climb another mountain. I've been exploring the Highlands and Islands of Scotland ever since I was a child. Their mystical majesty has captured my heart.